General Guides & Information

The following guides have been gathered over the years and we find they are the questions we get asked everyday at the counter. We would still recommend an experienced contractor carry out your job but the following may just help you if your a keen DIY’er.

Hanging a Single Field Gate

We recommend you have all the items you require and lay out the gate to ensure it will fit. We DO NOT recommend fitting the posts before you have the gate!

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Pair of 5 Bar Gates

Hanging a pair of field gates on the rear of the posts allowing 180 degrees inward opening.- PLEASE NOTE THE IMAGE SHOWN BELOW IS THE VIEW FROM INSIDE THE PROPERTY.

We recommend drop bolts are fitted to both gates. You should place the top pin upside down to help prevent theft of the gate. We recommend using a 24 inch hinge set for any gate over 7ft. You will need to drill 19mm holes using an auger bit for the pins. Alternatively use hook on plates if this isn’t possible.

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Pedestrian Gate

Hanging a pedestrian gate. On all gates over 1.5m (5ft) in height we recommend you fit a Brenton bolt top & bottom to help reduce any natural movement in the gate and to keep it plumb.

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Courtyard/Driveway Gates

Hanging a pair of courtyard/driveway gates. We recommend drop bolts are fitted to both gates

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Working Out Square Meterage For Timber Projects

We are often asked “How much Loglap will I need to clad my shed?” To answer this question we need to know how much of a square meter each length of log lap will cover. So here is the math…

Our loglap has coverage (the depth not including the overlap) of 120mm. So type 0.120 into your calculator and times it by the length of the timber, in this case our loglap is 5.1m long.

0.120 x 5.1 = 0.61. Each board covers 0.61 of a square meter (So just over half a square meter.)
If the wall of your shed is 2.4m long and 2.1m high

2.4 x 2.1 = 5.04 m2

5.04 divided by 0.61=8.2 You will need 8-9 lengths to do this side of the shed. Now you can use the same calculation to work out the remaining walls, floor and roof.

This same calculation can be used for all timbers and is very handy when working out decking projects too.

Working out timber on square meterage does not allow for waste.

Fitting Cedar Shingles

Cedar shingles come in various grades. Ours are Grade 1 blues. A premium grade shingle suitable for high end roof and wall cladding applications.

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There are many tools to help with wire fencing jobs including gripples and crimps but knots are still used everyday by our contractors.

Figure of 8 Knot

The figure of 8 knot has a breaking strain of 470kg. To tie this knot either follow the instructions below, or click this link for a step-by-step video guide of how to do it.

The technique is to make a loop in the first wire, then bring the second wire through the eye of the loop, firstly under, then over, then back under the first wire, then simply pass the tail through the gap between the two eyes. When the tension is applied the tails will press against each other, then get tighter and tighter. Once the wire is pulled to the desired tension, the knot is finished by wrapping the tails off with three tight wraps, and finally snap off the surplus

Tex Brown

The Tex Brown knot is said to be one of the strongest knots. It is basically an extension of the figure of 8 knot. To tie this knot either follow the instructions below, or click this link for a step-by-step video guide of how to do it.

1) Firstly make a loop, then bring the next piece of wire through the eye, under then over, then pull it down under the other section of wire, so it is parallel with the other tail.
2) Next, with the same wire, bend it straight back up, and with the other tail rotate it under the tail above so they are both pointing upwards
3) The tail that you have just rotated stays where it is, while the other tail goes behind where the knot started. The tails should now be in position ready to wrap tightly - one going one way round and one going the other

Speed Knot

The speed knot is done using the jaw of the plain wire grip. To tie this knot either follow the instructions below, or click this link for a step-by-step video guide of how to do it.

1) First take the wire in the jaw and beind it up 90 degrees, then, with the second wire, do two tight wraps around the first wire.
2) Next fold the 90 degree wire right back and do three tight wraps around all the wires - then with the tail sticking out, wrap that around twice to finish

Reef Knot

The Reef knot has a breaking strain of 440kg. To tie this knot either follow the instructions below, or click this link for a step-by-step video guide of how to do it.

The easiest way to tie a Reef knot is to make two "U's" in each wire, with one smaller than the other. Take the small "U" and bring it through the larger one and pass the tail end around the back and return through where it came from. As with the figure of 8 knot, pull to the desired tensions and wrap the tails to finish.


Strainer post should be notched out or a vice bite should be used when fitting the struts. Strainers are normally placed at the start & end of a run. Every 50m, when there is a change in direction or a significant change in ground level.

Intermediate posts should be placed a approximately 3m apart when using mild steel wire. Post can be further apart if high tensile wire is being used. High tensile wire should only be used if correct tensioning of the fence can be achieved.

Various tools such as monkey strainers, gripples & netting stretchers can be used in the installation of stock fencing. More information can be found on our fencing tools page.

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Working Out Decking

There are lots of ways to price and fit a decked area. But a very basic guide is as follows.

Joist to be placed at 400-450mm centres. We recommend using 100 x 50mm or 150 x 50mm. Supports should be placed within the deck framework. Normally 75 x 75mm or 100 x 100mm would be used. There are legal limits to raised decked areas.


Our deck boards have a coverage of 120mm. If your deck is 4m x 2.7m and you want the boards to run the 2.7m length you would do the following.

4000mm (which is 4m in millimetres) divided by 120mm. Your calculator will show 33.3. You can’t have 33.3 deck board! So you would required 34no deck boards (closest we have to this example is 3m) to cover this. This doesn't allow for skirting & trimming the deck.

You can also do your workings out based on square meterage. Square meterage does not allow for cutting or waste so consider this when ordering.

4m x 5m is 20m2

You now need to work out the square meterage of a deck board. You take its width and times it by its length.

0.120 (that's the coverage in mm of our deck boards) x its length so lets say 4.2m. So in this example the deck board is 0.50 (so half) of a square meter.

Finally take the size of your deck in this example is was 20m2 and divide it by the square meterage of your deck board that you have just worked out.

So…. 20 divided by 0.5 equals 40. You will need approximately 40 boards.

Feather Edge Fencing

Our feather edge is 125mm wide. So we recommend an overlap of 25mm. This means you need 10 boards per meter of fence.

For fences over 1.2m you should use 3 or more rails. Post should be placed at either 1.8m 2.1m or 4.8m centres. A top cap and gravel board will help to prolong the life of the fence but it also looks good too.

Post should sit 600mm into the ground and you should use 1-2 bags of postcrete per post to secure. For fences over 1.8m in height we recommend that more of the post is placed into the ground.

Our most popular rail for feather edge fencing is 3.6m x 87 x 38mm (for 1.8m post centres) or 4.8m x 100 x 38mm. ( for 2.4m post centres)

Working Out Picket Fencing

Take the overall distance of your fence, lets say 10m. 10m is 10,000mm

You choose a picket that is 75mm wide and you decide to have a gap of 50mm between the pickets/pales.

75mm plus 50mm is 125mm

your fence is 10,000mm long;

10,000 divided by 125mm equals 80. you will need approximately 80 pickets/pales.

For fences over 1.2m you should use 3 or more rails. Post should be placed at either 1.8m 2.1m or 4.8m centres.

Posts should be a minimum of 450mm in the ground and 600mm for fences over 1.2m in height.

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Working Out Venetian Fencing

This modern horizontal fencing is easier to work out than you think.

1) Choose the height of your fence and turn this into a mm measurement.

For example - 6ft high (1.8m ) is 1800mm

2) Choose your baton. Our most popular option is 3.6m x 50 x 25mm smooth (44 x 19mm finish).

3) Choose the gap you would like between the batons. Lets say 10mm for this example

4) Add the width of your baton and the gap size together. 44mm +10mm = 54mm

You know you want your fence to be 1800mm high. 1800mm divided by 54mm is 33.3. So this means you will need 33/34 baton for each 3.6m section of fence.

5) Lets say the fence is 12m long. 12m divided by 3.6m (as this is the length of your baton) = 3.3. So you will have three full sections each 3.6m and a shorter section.

6) 3.3 x 34 =112.2 You will need 112/113 batons for the fence.

7) Add an extra baton to place vertically between your posts this will help to keep the horizontal batons aligned.

8) You will need to choose a post to put in every 1.8m (as the baton you have chosen is 3.6m) Remember you need 600mm (2ft) in the ground. If your fence is 1800mm high your post will need to be 2400mm (8ft)

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